Fortuity

A fortuitous breakfast conversation led to the best meal I've had in Vietnam, to date.  Chatting with Twah and Tim, a vibrant couple from New York, I received a fantastic tip for a seafood restaurant off the beaten the path.  I also learned Twah's riveting story.  Thirty one years ago she and her family fled Hue seeking refuge after the fall of Saigon.  You can read her tale here.

As for dinner, truly sublime.  I took a taxi to Minh Vinh, a restaurant in the backyard of a house, on a narrow street off the main road near the beach.  I was glad to be the only foreigner.  A few eyebrows raised when I entered, but my gaze was met with smiles and waves.  I started with a local fish, similar to snapper,  wrapped in a banana leaf and grilled to crunchy, crispy perfection.  I'm uncertain as to the actual seasonings, but it was spicy and delicious.  To eat, the fish was placed in a square of rice paper, topped with fresh sprigs of herbs and greens, rolled and dipped in a fish sauce.  Heaven.  My second dish was clams.  Tiny, quarter sized shells with five spices grilled to perfection.  They were tangy, salty and tender.  If I had to rate them, my favorite dish of the night.  Next was a big, juicy, fresh prawn grilled with garlic and dipped in salt, pepper and lime.  For desert I had grilled squid with salt and slivers of green chili dipped in fish sauce.  I tried to cool my mouth with the accompanying mint and cucumber, but was unsuccessful.   I was one of the last to leave the restaurant and the only other table of patrons greeted me on my way out.  They asked me where I was from and one of the men said, "You're in room 101".  "Yes," I replied before recognizing him from the front desk of the hotel.   We laughed, chatted and said goodbye.