I wanted to explore Cuba beyond Havana and Vinales, a
valley 3 hours west, promised spectacular views of tobacco fields
surrounded by limestone mountains. Cities offer architecture and
culture, but it's the more remote towns that excite me the most. The
days are lazier, and navigation easier. These are the experiences that
take me furthest from my life in LA, and punctuate the thrill of being
off the beaten path. But how to get to Vinales was the question. Car
rentals were expensive and complicated, plus road maps were scarce. Joel had a cousin with a
vintage car, and if he was available would pick us up at noon. We packed our bags and waited. Not surprisingly, thirty minutes later, we needed a
new plan. Earlier I noticed a hub of taxis at Parque Central so we
hailed a bici-taxi to the square. A small riot ensued as we tried to
negotiate a fare and inspect our various options. The beautifully
restored convertibles came with a hefty price tag, and I was concerned the
less pristine vehicles would be uncomfortable. After one driver left in
a huff, we settled on a maroon '56 Chevy, and began our $80 journey with
our driver, Frank. The car had been originally purchased by his
grandfather and was now a source of pride and income.
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