Exploring

It's impossible for me to walk the streets of Havava and not imagine how it was when these spectacular edifices were erected and the locals were able to afford to eat in all the restaurants and dance in all the clubs. The class disparity and poverty is evident everywhere. There are long lines outside the markets where food is rationed and the goods are limited. Tourists travel the old city streets in bici-taxis owned by strong young men supplementing their income. Unemployment is high and wages are low. Scaffolding and construction sites are prevalent as the government has been funding refurbishing buildings and squares. Some scaffolding, overgrown with verdant trees makes me winder how long it will take for these projects to be completed.
We spent the afternoon with a contact I had from a well-traveled friend in LA. Victor is 70, a retired aero engineer and, for the last ten years, has been making extra money as a fixer and guide. He graciously brought us to a friend's casa particular in Habana Vieja. After two nights at the infamous and touristy Hotel Nacional, the plan was to integrate and stay two nights at a casa particular. I had lists from my research prior to leaving LA, but our scout earlier in the week lead to no vacancies. Several years ago, regulations changed and many more individuals were able to rent rooms in their homes. I was interested in a more authentic experience and compelled to experience Habana this way.
Victor's friend, Samuel, was struck with macular degeneration at age 12 and started to weave textured tapestries on a large loom. We were given a tour of his house and art. Ironically this is the same illness EM Developed several years ago. After Victor drove us to the casa is his in late '50s bVW beetle, and Samuel gave us a tour of his home and art, we felt compelled to book a room.
During lunch with Victor our conversation turned political. He is well travelled, educated and connected. His patriotism was evident, and has no desire to leave Cuba or to see it radically change. He had strong opinions about the USA and our media, many of which I agreed with. Interestingly, he believes when change does happen it will happen peacefully, a naive thought, in my opinion. He lives in the Vedado in a house his grandmother "inherited" after the revolution when time tenants were "given" their properties, and property owners' wealth was distributed.
Although we met through a friend, Victor wasn't going to charge us for the day. We paid for his lunch, and tipped him, and he was willing to give us a tour of the streets. I was itchy to be off on my own with my camera, exploring aimlessly, getting lost in a new city.

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