This
morning, walking around the Plaza de Vieja we met Joel. We had
already heard his schtick several times from other men on the street --
did we know that today was a special day in Havana? There was a
festival ten minutes away, beginning now. Buena Vista Social Club was
repeated often. When we asked where, he said he'd take us. Sometimes
it is good to be inquisitive and trusting. Although there was no
festival, Joel took us to a school where children studied dance and
music. There were no performances, but next door was a bar where the
BVSC frequently hung out, as documented in the film. An excellent band
was playing and we ordered a round of drinks, not mojitos since Joel
told us they are the drinks for tourists, but something with grenadine. Somehow EM ended up behind the bar making the second round per the bartender's instructions. Joel's English was fantastic, he had a sense of humor and loves of
American cinema. The Godfather trilogy and The Patriot were among his
favorites. He was unaware that his tee shirt, a man sitting on the
toilet with ear buds with the word ipood, was a joke. Of course, the
conversation turned to politics, and his point of view was quite
different from Victor's. At 31, with a 6 year old daughter, he is
eager for change. He lives pay check to paycheck, not enough to save
and often not enough to buy the food he needs. He was critical of the
Castros, pondered if they were still alive since their whereabouts are
unknown. "We don't have a White House like your president." He did not
believe change would occur without civil unrest. Although we bought
him drinks and wanted to tip him for bringing us to the bar and sharing
his stories, he refused. However, later he did ask if we would buy him
milk. As non Cubans we could each buy two powered packages of leche,
he would keep two and give two to his brother who had a young son. We
walked to the corner mercado, he ordered and we paid, no questions.
Surprising, the prices were in CUC the currency for tourists, locals
are paid in another currency which has less value, and were quite
expensive at around $7 per package. The afternoon with Joel was a high
point. Interacting, sharing conversation, learning things about other
cultures is the reason I love to travel.
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