Showing posts with label Sapa. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sapa. Show all posts
Tuesday, March 22, 2011
Trek
Upon arriving in Sapa I stopped at a storefront advertising guided tours to the local villages. I booked a two day trek, leaving the following morning with a homestay in Lao Chai village. The details, where we going, how many miles we were trekking, and how many others were in the group, were murky, but I was unconcerned. The urban centers intrigue me, but it's the mountainous regions, fertile from the rivers that weave through their basins, that make my heart flutter. I crave being lost on a trail, in the middle of nowhere, as far from modern life as possible. Given the recent unseasonal snow and rain in Sapa, we were fortunate with a warm, sunny day. Terraced fields carved into the hillside were dotted with men, women and children hoeing the land planting corn, cabbage, and roses. Rice will be planted in May and harvested in August. Words, nor photos, can express the natural splendor of this region. I had found my bliss. Our group was small, three in total, Chatelle, from New Zealand and Nicolas from Singapore, the latter along for only the day trek. In the late afternoon we stopped in Lao Chai for the night. We meandered down a path through the rice paddies to the river, and sat on the banks aware of our good fortune. From the fields we heard children playing, and soon lanky adolescent bodies covered in mud were squealing towards the water. A class of eighth graders from a private school in Seattle were traveling in Vietnam for the month. Their task on this leg of the trip, to help the locals turn over the soil, turned into a zealous mud fight. I admired their spirit and wondered about the impact this experience would have on their lives. One boy, Jimmy, was in the midst of deciding where to attend high school in the fall. He said the trip to Vietnam had changed, made him more independent, and consequently made him think differently about his future education. Back at the homestay, Chatelle and I drank local fruit wine reminiscent of cheap port and played pool. We were joined by four girls from Hong Kong and a couple from Isreal, Noa and Ami, whom I had encountered twice before in Sapa. They were looking for a place for the night, and I recommended our accommodations. We all crowded into the kitchen to help our hosts make spring rolls for dinner. The meal was a feast -- fried potatoes, soup, sauteed greens and cabbage, spring rolls, pork and beef. We devoured every morsel. The four of us remained on the porch talking about our various transitional situations -- Chatelle is embarking on a year in Nepal teaching English. Ami and Noa, recently married will soon complete their five month trip and return to Isreal. Having completed nine years in the army Ami will begin looking for a job in the civil work force. As the orange super moon rose in the east, we discussed many topics -- the purpose of American war in Vietnam, day to day life in Israel, career choices, Purim, travel, and relationships. The conversation was easy, convivial as if we were old friends. It's this interaction with people from so many diverse backgrounds that makes me love to travel. My exposure to the world isn't just through the prism of the country I'm visiting, but through the myriad life experiences of those I meet along the way. By 10pm we were asleep. Morning came early when the roosters started to crow and we prepared for our trek to Ta Van village. Another perfect day.
Monday, March 21, 2011
Hmong
Arriving in the Northern Vietnamese mountain town Sapa I'm swarmed by women in traditional black leggings, cloth shirt dresses, brightly colored scarves wrapped around their heads and heavy silver hoops in their ears. A girl of 23 who looked closer to 13 with a baby, her baby, swathed to her back pleasantly asked me "What's your name, where are from, are you married, do you have children?" A run on list of rote questions. The H'mong women are industrious and engage tourists for one purpose, to sell them hand woven belts, bags, and pillow covers stored in the baskets they wear like backpacks. In town, they followed me through out the day, waiting as I shopped or dined and then went in for the sell, "Buy something from me, my friend. I like this, I made this, buy from me." They even trekked with us offering a hand down the the muddy terrain, to the nearby village. Unfortunately, their companionship came with an awkward price. In the end, they expected us to buy their wares, and strutted away annoyed if we didn't. The H'mong girls are encouraged to marry at fifteen, as soon as they've completed secondary school, and start having children soon after. In conversation I learned their husbands tend to be farmers, harvesting crops for them to eat, not sell, or unemployed. The women are often the breadwinners, dependent on the money earned from hassling tourists. I was sympathetic, yet quickly grew weary of their tactics especially when "no, thank you" had no impact on their relentless badgering. I found myself disengaging and wishing they wouldn't walk with me on the trails. I turned my eyes away when they started to pull items out of their baskets. I commend their desire to make money and support their families, but I wonder if there's a better way for them to sustain an income.
Sunday, March 20, 2011
Comfort
Sometimes I miss the comforts of home especially when it comes to cleanliness, a warm, cozy bed, and a hot shower. I know I have heating issues in the hills, but I can always count on the sheets being laundered. I've definitely hit a more rugged portion of my trip. The last hotel in Hanoi was a dud. Unfortunately, the ratings and descriptions on sites like Tripadvisor and Travelfish aren't always accurate or my standards are very different than those writing the reviews. A crappy hotel stay was followed by a twelve hour night train to Sapa. More uncomfortable than anticipated, loud and turbulent. The melatonin I took to aid my sleep induced bizarre dreams and restlessness. When we arrived in Lao Cai, my lower back was numb from hours on a rigid, rocking platform with a thin mattress. During the hour bus ride further up the mountain, Sapa was initially steeped in fog, but later the clouds cleared and gave way to a glorious summit. My hotel was less than splendid, another disappointment from the online community. I looked to find a more suitable accommodation upon checking in, but the spectacular, tasteful boutique hotel, Sapa Rooms, on the corner was booked. After several other no vacancies I was resigned to staying put in a room without heat and air laden with varnish from repairs to the lobby doors.. I'm planning on a long ambien induced sleep to prepare for my two day trek tomorrow. For all of my discomfort, and whining Sapa is one of the most breathtaking places I've ever experienced. My hike to Cat Cat, village of the Hmong ethnic minority group, was blissful and slow-going due to the many photos I snapped along the way. I remind myself, being outside of my comfort zone is temporary, as is being on such an amazing adventure.
Labels:
Cat Cat Village,
Sapa,
Vietnam
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