Recommendations

Where to sleep and eat in Cuba

Havana - Accommodations
 

Hotel Nacional (Calle 21 y O | Vedado, Plaza, Havana) - It was convenient to have accommodations at a big hotel the first two nights.  It was easy to exchange money, buy a street map, get information in English.  The 8th floor was recently renovated, and nicer than the others.  Beds were very comfortable, room was clean, air conditioner quiet and strong.  The downside: very touristy, expensive, breakfast was mediocre, long walk to Habana Vieja, but closer to restaurants in Vedado.

If staying at a hotel is important, I would check out other ones in the old city -- The Saratoga, and Raquel had beautiful lobbies and had great locations.  Otherwise, I'd book a casa particular as soon as possible.  Experience is more authentic, and food is better.

Artedel Luxury Penthouse (http://www.cubaguesthouse.com/penthouse.home.html?lang=en) - Ydalgo's casa particular in the Vedado was sophisticated, stylish and very comfortable.   Similar to a boutique hotel; the beds wer very comfortable, beautiful tiled bathrooms, delicious breakfast served on china.  Wrap around porch has spectacular views and there's a little dunking pool.  Much more expensive (70 CUC/night) than the other casas, but less than the hotels, and worth it.

Casa Lilly (http://www.casalilly.com/) - Apartment on 13th floor of a residential building in the Vedado.  Beautifully decorated.  Saw the space, but didn't have vacancies.  Stones throw from Artedel in Vedado, and much more reasonable (35 CUC/night). 

Chez Nous (http://www.havanacasaparticular.com/properties_details.asp?id_hotel=634) - GREAT location near Plaza Vieja.  They have two properties, and we stayed at the one across the street which was like renting an entire apartment.  Views were spectacular.   Bathroom was down the hall, but big and clean.  Mattresses were okay.  Main house, where we were served breakfast,  has more charm, and one room has private bathroom.  (35 CUC/night)

Havana - Meals

I was forewarned that no one goes to Cuba for the food. One of the repeated jokes in guide books and online articles --  "What are the three greatest failures of Fidel's revolution?  Breakfast, lunch and dinner?" made me slightly apprehensive.  I packed a half dozen protein bars for emergencies, and hoped for the best.  Cuban's bland and unadventurous food is the result of scarcity, cost and rations.  Spices and vegetables are difficult to find, menus are predictable, and dishes under seasoned.  Bread is often stale, and flavorless.  Thankfully, rice and beans are plentiful, as is fish.  I kept my orders simple -- roasted or grilled fish.  Eggs were always served at breakfast which was an unexpected treat.  Bananas were abundant and creamy. 

Don Lorenzo (Calle Acoste 260 entre Habana y Compostela) - Nice patio terrace, with live music.   Food was good, not great.

El Cocinero (Calle 26 entre 11 y 13, Vedado, La Habana, Cuba)  Run, don't walk to this sophisticated paladar.  Food and cocktails were exceptional, as was desert.

Cafe Laurent (Calle M No 257, between Calles 19 and 21, Vedado) Very good.  Inspired, good quality food.  Beautiful upstairs patio.

DeCameron (Linea 753 entre Paseo y 2 | Vedado, Havana) - charming atmosphere, we ate in a room of clocks.  Green salad was heavenly, shrimp was okay, but overall would recommend.  Quality of food and service was high.

El Templete (Ave. del Puerto esq. Narciso Lopez, Habana Vieja) - overrated, expensive and mediocre.  Went there becauase Anthony Bourdain shot there, but it's state run.  Don't recommend it, and would try to eat at Paladars.

Le Chansonnier (Calle J No 257, between Calles 13 and 15, Vedado, +537 832 1576) Was recommended, but didn't have time to visit.  Reviews are positive.  Would check it out.

Vinales

Casa Yurkenia and Lila (km 25 carretera a Vinales, # 6-B, Vinales 22400, Cuba) - delightful casa 5 minutes walk from town square.  Quiet, beautiful rooftop views, clean and very hospitable.  Delicious home cooked breakfast (fresh juice, coconuts, bananas, eggs, cheese) and dinner (soup, fish, vegteables, rich and beans, taro chips).  Welcoming and delightful.  (Yurkenia's email yurlila@nauta.cu)

 

Calle Acosta #260
entre Habana y Compostela
Habana Vieja - See more at: http://www.cuba-junky.com/havana/restaurant_don_lorenzo.html#sthash.1pZp3T85.dpuf

Calle Acosta #260
entre Habana y Compostela
Habana Vieja - See more at: http://www.cuba-junky.com/havana/restaurant_don_lorenzo.html#sthash.1pZp3T85.dpuf

Calle Acosta #260
entre Habana y Compostela
Habana Vieja - See more at: http://www.cuba-junky.com/havana/restaurant_don_lorenzo.html#sthash.1pZp3T85.dpuf

 

Vedado

Vedado, the most modern section of Havana, was developed in the first half of the 20th century.  A mix of middle and upper class houses, many art deco in style, are in various forms of decay.  Shady sidewalks, museums, and some of the best paladars in the city are in this neighborhood. Less congested than the older section, more tranquil, and perfect neighborhood for walking and exploring.

El Cocinero

Climbing the stairs of an old smoke stack we arrived at a beautiful dining room with a patio.  The sophistication and quality of the food was unlike anything we experienced. The lettuce in my salad was sweet, and unexpectedly sprinkled with almonds and chunks of dried figs.  The dressing was creamy and well seasoned.  My entree, lobster, common on menus, was beautifully plated, and the tail was juicy, unlike the overcooked, and salty lobsters I had on the trip.  EM's food was equally inspired and delicious.  Piped in jazz music, and a full dining room added to the ambiance. After dinner, our curiosity beckoned us to climb the spiral staircase where we found a rocking outdoor patio. At 11pm on a Thursday, the space was packed with a sleek, cosmopolitan crowd.  This was a Cuba we had not experienced; it was an echo from the past and a glimpse into the future.  We ordered drinks, and sat at a table next to two Spanish businessmen who travel to Habana monthly selling paper products from a mill outside Barcelona.  They discreetly paid our tab and invited us to an after hours bar, Tocororo, in Miramar.  A favorite haunt of businessmen and women looking to meet them, the atmosphere was dark andclubby.  Cigar smoke filled the air, and a musician sang.  Dancing spontaneously occurred in pockets around the room.  Our penultimate night in Habana made me wonder how many other venues like El Cocinero existed, or if it was an anomaly.

Biking and Hiking, 92 degrees and humid

We biked to a trail head and hiked 1.5 miles up a muddy path to a community who believes the  local water has healing properties.  There was no town, per se, but a sole house where coffee was planted, dried and roasted.  We drank fresh juice, ate creamy bananas and tried to ignore the sweat pouring down our bodies in the moist heat.  The spectacular views were worth the trek and truth be told if felt amazing to be high in the mountains in such a beautiful place.

Cayo Jutias

EM needs a day swimming in the ocean, like I need getting lost with my camera.  Thus she's been a wonderful impetus for beach exploration.  Today, we took an  hour taxi ride  from Vinales to a spectacular cove, Cayo Jutias.  I'm certain if you look hard enough you can see Florida.  White sand, tranquil turquoise water, a good book and a coconut.  Perfect beach day.  Ran into the LA couple we meet the day before in the cave, actors and film makers, initially they hoped to interview subjects for their documentary on female outliers.  Red tape and no internet access turned the trip into a holiday.  He also told me about being detained at the airport, questioned for 45 minutes before going through immigration.  A late afternoon thunderstorm on the way home, made for a harrowing car ride. Tonight we feasted on soup and red snapper.

God Is In The Details - Habana Vieja

Habana Vieja

Got a glimpse of the old city after dining at El Templete. The streets were lively, and populated with locals and tourists, music flowed from roftop apartments and corner cafes, yet at the same time it is eerily empty due to an extraordinary amount of abandoned buildings. I expected Havana to be trapped in time, but experiencing it is very different than seeing photos or reading about it. The classic architecture ranges from Doric columns to antebellum porches, shells of a former economy, crumbling in the moonlight.

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